Making
For trouser 2 we are using a black PU leatherette.
I have decided to carry forward and develop ideas from trouser one as i feel it was a strong idea and has many other design options to explore, with this i did some research into current designers. I found this image i really liked from moschinos AW12 collection, using different panels in different colours works really well.
I used the patterns pieces cut from trouser 1, cutting the top and bottom panels from the black leatherette, for the centre knee panels i used the same navy leatherette as in dress 2.
Through the module i have tried to test and experiment with fabrics, going against the grain of what they should be used for sometimes not knowing the outcome as i feel the module allows this...
. I know that its very difficult to pattern cut chiffon and that jersey is best for draping, but what happens if you cut, rip, burn, pull or crease materials?
With this i sat (for hours!) pulling apart the layers of 2 metres of the navy leatherette, the outcome was a really interesting patchwork effect (see pic).
I also attempted a pocket and a wasitband for the first time, for the waistband i used an instruction sheet given in a different module and for the pocket and looked at my own trousers for shape ideas.
I wanted to develop my finishing of my garments, after researching different techniques, i tried hemming web for the first time, i was pleasantly suprised how successful it worked, although i dont feel this is a very long term solution as by the time of the show some of the hems were coming undone.
Its really easy to iron on and use and good for quick solutions.
I also used it around the pocket to give a better finish, i cut strips to size and sandwiched the fabric and web in place inbetween calico as when i ironed the sample, the leatherette melted to the iron, ooops!
Improvements;
Sewing this material was a nightmare! As it was so thin it made an unpicking near impossible without it ripping as the pic shows. Also, as i sewed the waistband on last it started off easy to sew and looked well done but it got harder as i sewed around by the time i reach the other side it gathered up and when i tried to unpick it, it ripped again.
Plan out what to sew first in future.
I think i should have used a teflon foot on reflection as this would have helped the material pass through the machine easier as it bubbled up really easy, as above.
I big mistake i made was cutting the left, front centre panel the wrong way around, which lost alot of the detail i worked so hard on, i didnt realise until the day before the show when i was sewing it together, i didnt have time or enouight leather to recut so i used some of the offcuts and hand sewed a panel over. It help retrieve the intrecacy of my work but looked unprofessional.
One thing i feel i concentrated on and vastly improved was my pattern cutting and seam allowance as, on skirt 2 ended up being a size smaller due to accidentally sewing loads more than the seam allowance, as the pic shows above i worked hard to change this.
Other Findings;
How well did it work as a garment?
I thought it worked well as a garment as the design idea was thought out and i feel this helped the make and it was clear to see i had been considered. The only problem in relation to the wear of the garment was it didnt fit well on the waist, it needed a button above the zip to help the waistband fit, also because i took the darts in at the back to gain a better fit i didnt adjust the waistband which made it bigger.
Is it fashion?
Again i feel this is fashion as i have researched designers and used this as inspiration from there catwalk collections there creating right now. Also my use of experimentation worked particularly well this week, how i have encorporated it selectively into my design as oppose to over doing i feel also contributes to the fashionablilty.
What was the fabric?
PU leatherette
How much did you use
1 metre of black leatherette and 2 metres of my own navy leatherette
How much did it cost?
black leatherette - £3p.m
navy leatherette -£6 p.m
where was it sourced?
walthamstow market - black leatherette
shepherds bush - navy leatherette
FINISHED GARMENT
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